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Listen to the article4 min, read by a synthetic voice

In brief

  • Kering said on Friday, 9 October, that Anthony Vaccarello is leaving Saint Laurent after ten years as creative director, succeeding Hedi Slimane's successor period of 2016 onward with no named replacement yet.

  • Saint Laurent's gross revenues fell 9% in 2024 and 6% in 2025, and Kering shares are down 31% this year.

  • Sales rose from just over 1 billion euros in 2016 to 3.2 billion euros in 2023, driven in particular by the men's line.

  • RFI and Il Sole 24 Ore name Chemena Kamali, artistic director of Chloé, as a possible candidate, while Kering has not named anyone.

Photo: YanRB, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons, cropped)
How it came to this
  1. 29 SeptFinal Paris show; Vaccarello hands a set of keys to his son Luca
  2. 9 OctKering announces Vaccarello's departure
  3. 22 OctKering due to report third-quarter sales

The announcement

Kering said on Friday that Anthony Vaccarello is leaving Saint Laurent after ten years as creative director of the French fashion house. The Belgian designer was appointed in April 2016 to succeed Hedi Slimane, and his exit makes Saint Laurent the last Kering brand to part with its creative director amid a luxury slowdown that has already prompted designer changes at Gucci, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta. Kering said a new creative director will be announced soon but did not name one. Vaccarello is 44 years old. Luca de Meo, the group's chief executive, praised his work in a statement.

“Thanks to his creative vision and his rigorous standards, he helped strengthen the lasting influence of one of the great French haute couture houses, as we prepare to write a new chapter in its history.”

Luca de Meo, chief executive of Kering

A decade of growth

Vaccarello took over from Hedi Slimane and built the label on strong Chinese demand, runway shows staged in front of the Eiffel Tower and a push into film production. Sales reached 3.2 billion euros in 2023, up from just over 1 billion euros in 2016, a rise driven in particular by the men's line. Saint Laurent co-produced three films in competition at the 2024 Cannes Film Festival, including Emilia Pérez by Jacques Audiard. Born in Belgium to Italian parents, Vaccarello studied at La Cambre in Brussels, worked at Fendi and launched his own label in 2009, and in 2013 Donatella Versace brought him in to revive Versus. Cédric Charbit, president and chief executive of Saint Laurent, credited him with the brand's rise.

“Anthony took Saint Laurent onto an extraordinary trajectory, raising the maison to the top in terms of desirability and image, while doing exceptional work both creatively and through its cultural impact.”

Cédric Charbit

Slowing sales and the share price

Saint Laurent's gross revenues fell 9% in 2024 and 6% in 2025 before largely stabilizing this year, Kering said. Kering shares are down 31% this year, and the group is due to report third-quarter sales on 22 October. Luca de Meo is seeking to overhaul the group after years of decline, and gaining a foothold in the Chinese market is a top priority. Shares of Kering rose in Paris trading after the announcement.

Saint Laurent gross revenue change%
2024-9%
2025-6%
2024
-9 %
2025
-6 %

Data from the article text

The final show and the rumours

Rumours about the exit had circulated for some time, and the house had first denied them. The 29 September show took place in front of the Eiffel Tower under three massive gold chandeliers, and the finale played out in darkness. Vaccarello then walked the runway with his models and handed a set of keys to his son Luca, who was seated in the front row. The show already had the air of a farewell, and the designer's final collection featured golden looks.

Who could succeed him

Kering has not named a successor, and his next role has not been announced. Reports cited by RFI and Il Sole 24 Ore name Chemena Kamali, artistic director of Chloé and formerly at Saint Laurent, as a possible candidate. Il Sole 24 Ore also reports, citing industry gossip, that Vaccarello could land at Balenciaga or Vuitton unless he commits fully to film. Kering has said only that the new creative director will be announced soon.

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Sources and context

  • De Standaardon 9 Oct at 17:47Anthony Vaccarello, de Belgische ontwerper die Saint Laurent nog meer Saint Laurent maakte
  • Tgcom24on 9 Oct at 16:48Anthony Vaccarello via da Saint Laurent: i look sexy che hanno segnato un'epoca
  • RFIon 9 Oct at 16:11Moda: maison Saint Laurent se prepara para um novo capítulo após a saída de Anthony Vaccarello
  • Il Sole 24 OREon 9 Oct at 13:53Kering in luce a Parigi, Vaccarello lascia Saint Laurent dopo 10 anni
Anthony Vaccarello
Belgian designer leaving Saint Laurent after ten years as creative director
Luca de Meo
Chief executive of Kering, which owns Saint Laurent
Hedi Slimane
Designer whom Vaccarello succeeded at Saint Laurent in 2016
Chemena Kamali
Artistic director of Chloé, reported as a possible Saint Laurent successor
Jacques Audiard
Director of Emilia Pérez, a Saint Laurent co-production at Cannes 2024
Donatella Versace
Brought Vaccarello in to revive the Versus label in 2013

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First version on 9 Oct at 08:35, last change on 9 Oct at 22:30.

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Text generated by AI from the reports of the publishers listed and checked automatically, with no human editor. How Pollar is made

In this text

The announcementThe announcementA decade of growthA decade of growthSlowing sales and the share priceSlowing sales and the share priceThe final show and the rumoursThe final show and the rumoursWho could succeed himWho could succeed him

Where

Paris

Based on reports by

De Standaard, Tgcom24, RFI, Il Sole 24 ORE, LesEchos.fr, iefimerida.gr, Reuters, ANSA.it

List of sources

Business · Paris

Saint Laurent ends Anthony Vaccarello's decade as creative director at Kering

Kering said on Friday that Vaccarello is leaving the French fashion house after ten years. The group has not named a successor, but said a new creative director will be announced soon.

Paris
Paris · France

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AI text based on reports by De Standaard, Tgcom24, RFI and other publishers. Changed on 9 Oct at 22:30. How it is made